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Chipping Norton: The Town that Moved Up Hill

Chipping Norton, or Chippy, as locals call it, is one of the highest towns in the Cotswolds, but this was not always the case.

The town began down in the valley of the River Glyme – the earthworks of the Norman castle, built to keep the locals in order are still there.

But the local lord William FitzAlan had ambitions to make the town a major centre, so he built a huge market square (bigger than the area it covers today) up the hill.

Houses were built to surround the market space, and the long, narrow alleyways behind them remain, showing that these were burgage plots: long, narrow sites that gave every shop a window onto the High Street – this is the origin of the phrase ‘window shopping’.

The medieval buildings around the market place benefited from a makeover after 1704. The construction of Blenheim Palace down the road made the ornate baroque style fashionable, and lots of Chippy’s main buildings got a makeover with smooth-stoned, symmetrical frontages.

Bliss Mill

However, cattle, horses and sheep were still sold here, as well as wool, which led to the development of the town’s weaving industry and the building of the iconic Bliss Mill.

The Bliss family played a huge role in the development of Chipping Norton, before they hit hard times and sold up in 1895.

The new management pushed down wages and resisted the rise of the workers’ rights movement. This led to a strike that is famous in trade union history, and one of Chippy’s alarmingly regular ‘riots’ as 50 policeman were needed to hold back picketing strikers when their fellow workers headed to do a shift at the mill.

Bliss Mill, Chipping Norton — Bliss Mill dates from 1872. Its distinctive chimney has been likened to a sink plunger!

Town Hall

Another uprising led to the 1845 trial of a policeman called Charles Knott who was over eager in calming down a belligerent pub customer, bashing him over the head with his cosh. The poor chap was flung into a cell underneath the new Town Hall. When they opened up the next day, he was dead. The policeman was found ‘not guilty’ because his victim, rather conveniently, was found to have an unusually thin skull.

Rock ‘n’ Roll

There were 20 coach houses in Chippy at one time, giving customers and horses a welcome respite from the bumpy roads. When rail took over, many continued as pubs, and legendary drummer with The Who, Keith Moon, briefly owned one here from 1970

Many of his mates from the music industry would have been the other side of the bar, for the town had a recording studio from 1972 to 1997. Its walls echoes to hits such as ‘Bye Bye Baby’ from the Bay City Rollers, ‘Too Shy’ by Kajagoogoo, and ‘Baker Street’ by Gerry Rafferty.

Today the town is a hidden gem in the Cotswolds, with independent shops, a wonderful ‘Woolgothic’ church, and a terrific theatre that lives in an old Salvation Army chapel and puts on one of the top pantomimes in the country every year.
… Oh yes it does!

A bit about the author

Sean Callery runs regular walking tours of Chipping Norton through his Offbeat Cotswolds guiding operation ( www.offbeatcotswolds.com ).
He is a Blue Badge Guide for the Heart of England.

Luxury Hotels In The Cotswolds

Hotels

If you want a luxurious time, superior values and customary hospitality then you are looking for luxury hotels in the Cotswolds. Cotswold includes a castle, manor houses, and historical inns. If you take pleasure in being a visitor and not just some other room number, these extravagant hotels are for you. Here are some hotels that may be of interest to you.

Chargingworth Manor

Charingworth Manor is a beautiful escape. The views are commanded over calm rural Gloucestershire Countryside for over 700 years. Perfect for exploring this gorgeous part of England, Charingworth Manor is a peaceful location for vacations to important conferences. Enjoy yourself in the 26 bedrooms that have been newly refurbished to the highest standard offering modern style, all-new beds and duvets, plasma TVs, internet available, and extraordinary bathrooms. Enjoy a relaxing walk through stunning gardens, open country side, and more.

Dine in the intimate AA rosette restaurant with seasonal menu that make the most excellent of fresh Cotswold produce. Unwind in Cotswold spa with its own gym, sauna, steam room and pool. The heart of England is on their doorstep with historical houses and renowned gardens to explore. There is Shakespeare’s Stratford to discover and Broadway and Burford just is just a short drive away. Charingworth is a pet friendly hotel and welcomes your dogs to stay.

Thornbury Castle

Want a romantic getaway to the past? Then visit Thornbury Castle where Kings and Queens have stayed, Courtiers have flirted with ladies-in-waiting in the very old yew hedged gardens, and service girls have whispered in the halls. Thornbury is the only Tudor castle in England to be open as a hotel and still resonates with history. Nevertheless, step behind heavy oak doors and you will find a splendid hotel with roaring fires, extravagant bedrooms, holistic and massage treatments suitable for men and women.

The lunch menu changes on a daily basis enabling the Chef to integrate the freshest seasonal produce. Walk the grounds and benefit from the open air where Kings of England once walked. Enjoy a royal night’s sleep in the Duke’s Bedchamber where King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn slept. If you favor the Cloucester Bedchamber, wake up to a view of the oldest Tudor gardens in England.

The Goring

If you are looking for a historical getaway then The Goring is your place. Built in 1910 flanking to Buckingham Palace it is ideally the location you want to stay. You can gaze on the historical castle of the Queen. It is within walking distance of the Royal parks, London’s major shopping areas and the spirit of the West End. The Goring has luxurious bedrooms and one of the first to have personal spacious bathrooms.

Lounge in the bar with elite access to the private gardens, dinning on the Veranda during the season of summer, private dining rooms for meetings and special occasions, approved membership to local health club with full access to pool and gym, high speed internet, internet on TVs with infra-red keyboard, and much more. The Goring is one of the oldest but elegant hotels in London but is one of the most updated.

Something Different

If you’re looking for something a bit more secluded and exclusive, check out our blog post on places to stay near the Cheltenham Festival for some other suggestions.

The Typical English Cottage

Facts

Great Britain is famous for many things, not least its scenic countryside and charming cottages. Here the refreshing greenery and cleanliness of the air are really amazing.

The British countryside is also characterised by a pristine beauty including green hills sloping down towards rugged mountain ranges with hundreds of waterfalls, inhospitable gorges, sand eddies, cliffs, subtropical vegetation and numerous lakes.

Beautiful countryside

It is a romantic setting composed of endless pastures and wheat fields. For certain aspects it reminds one of Tuscan landscapes; might this have been the reason why, in the Eighteen and Nineteen-hundreds, English literates moved to and celebrated Tuscany in their accounts and works?

Typically hedges and stone walls delimit the landscape, and in the Cotswolds in particular a type of stone walls known as dry stone walls were the order of the day. Here the heritage is without any doubt the pride of this friendly people.

An important part of the history of the place are the worldwide famous English cottages, especially those in the Cotswolds area. But it does not matter from which cottage you depart, in Britain there is always a bit of nature to discover.

Thatched cottage in the Cotswolds village of Broad Campden — A thatched cottage in the Cotswolds village of Broad Campden

The impressive castles, beautiful churches and stately country houses surrounded by beautiful gardens should not be left out from your programme of visits.

Traditional pastimes

It would be a pity not to discover the ancient British traditions: cricket tournaments and horse races amongst them. But let’s not forget the afternoon tea; this is a lovely tradition that you can enjoy organizing a tea party yourself when renting a home or cottage.

Most of the times you will find a typical English tea set for your personal use. And how can you say no to having an abundant English breakfast, a “Full Monty”, perhaps in the garden, during a beautiful summer morning?

The English countryside is also famous for its small but lively pubs, still rooted in the ancient rural traditions. Having a pint with the locals adds so much flavour to your holiday!

The Village pub, Barnsley, Gloucestershire — The Village pub in Barnsley, Gloucestershire. It’s far more more chic than the name might suggest

As a matter of fact, cottages often started out as humble rural homes, although nowadays they have become desirable and fashionable, and can be quite prestigious properties.

The term indicates the typical country house of British provinces, intended for one family. Almost always cottages still in use are the result of subsequent additions and enlargements from what the original nucleus used to be.

This was carried on to satisfy the growing needs of a family. The resulting structure is very picturesque due to the combination of various colours and textures, but the most common appearance is composed of stone or bricks.

The typical cottage architecture and look can not only be found in private homes for rent, but also in many hotels, and summer and winter resorts.

Nevertheless, private cottages are often the best way to enjoy a self catering holiday in the Cotswolds. Just imagine staying in a cozy and quaint English-style cottage. Rooms are fully furnished and comfortable, while fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens provide all the necessary for a romantic holiday in any season.

The intimate and romantic atmosphere of a cottage is ideal for a honeymoon or even just a weekend. These small country houses surrounded by nature are perfect to switch off and recharge your batteries.

A Walk in the English Countryside

History, Things to do

3 Must-See Attractions in Castle Combe

Castle Combe, otherwise known as the Prettiest Village in England, is nestled in the southernmost corner of the Cotswolds. Visiting this sleepy, rural community is like stepping back into the 14th century.

Elegantly crafted stone houses, weavers’ cottages, stately gardens and narrow byways combine to create a traditional and picturesque English village.

While the castle on the hill made famous by the Normans no longer exists, the village of Castle Combe is a beautifully preserved example of the way life used to be in the English countryside. If you are out on a walking tour of Wiltshire, be sure to stop here to have a pint and explore its ancient sites and quiet charm. Here are three must-see highlights.

1. A 14th century Market Cross can be found in the centre of the village. These stone landmarks were used to signify the market squares in medieval times. Adjacent to the Market Cross, you will also find a Buttercross. This stone structure is where traders and market goers would tether their horses.

2. Located in the centre of the village, St. Andrew’s Church was built in the 13th century. The tower was added in the 15th century. Wealthy wool merchants funded the tower. The tower’s clock, which was designed by a local blacksmith, is the most famous attraction at St. Andrew’s Church. The clock is not only faceless, which makes it unique, but it is also considered to be one of the oldest working medieval clocks in England.

3. Take a stroll from the Market Cross to By Brook. By Brook is the river that powered Castle Combe’s wool industry in the Middle Ages. The Town Bridge and the Roman Bridge both span this river, and they are charming, well-preserved relics of a bygone era.

Things to Do in Cheltenham

Guides, Things to do, Towns

Cheltenham began life as an Anglo Saxon village in the 11th Century.

Located on the edge of the Cotswolds, surrounded by beautiful green countryside, Gloucester also lies nearby, although protected Greenbelt land has stopped them from forming an area of conurbation.

In the 18th Century, medicinal waters were found over what is now the Cheltenham Ladies’ College – a prestigious independent school for girls. The town, with a population of around 110,000 oozes elegance and finesse.

It’s famous for its Regency architecture, cream white terraced houses protected by wrought iron railings.

See below for our top 5 things to do if you’re in Cheltenham:

Cheltenham Cricket Festival

If you’re a fan of cricket then this is a must see festival. Full of beer, sun and cricket, it could not be any better.

A great atmosphere, great food and usually great games located on the grounds of the prestigious private school, Cheltenham College. You’re surrounded by a road which makes it feel like a bit like the jewel of the countryside has invaded the urban landscape.

Cheltenham Jazz Festival

Taken place over 14 different venues across the town, the music is as diverse as where the venues are.

Contemporary jazz acts can start from gospel, salsa to flamenco. The Town Hall usually hosts local schools’ jazz bands, allowing the young talent of the area to flourish the given opportunity to perform.

Pittville Pump Room

Built on the estate of Joseph Pitt, this became the main attraction in the town in 1788 when King George III came to visit.

Today, The Pump Room is used for music concerts, poetry readings, formal black tie events as well as a back drop for famous visitors such as Lord Byron, Jane Austin and the Duke of Wellington.

The beautiful Regency style room isn’t just available to the upper class, it is more often than not hired out and commonly used for weddings and dinner events.

Montpellier and the High Street

This gorgeous area is dominated by Edwardian and Georgian town houses, lined up neatly like an army of soldiers.

Wide open spaces, not too dissimilar to spaces found in London (for example, Trafalgar Square), can be found near many of the shops on the high street.

The choice of shops are excellent, accommodating everyone and you could spend a whole day walking up and down the high street.

As an added bonus, if you visit during the Light Up Cheltenham festival, the area is illuminated with various colourful displays and they run guided tours detailing the history of the town.

Night Life

Again, based around the high street, there are tonnes of bars and pubs for you too choose from. Everything is within convenient walking distance so you won’t be running up unnecessary taxi bills!

Begin your night out in a pub such as the Beehive Inn, try some local beer and ale (from what I hear they’re excellent) before moving onto a classy upmarket bar like Bentley’s. End the night either in Blush, a trendy, chic club conveniently close to the Bus Station and taxi rank. If you prefer something a little less alternative, Sub-tone is a great place. It’s a club with the layout of a house!

So there you have it, 5 great things to do and see if you’re in Cheltenham. Be sure to check them all out, you won’t be disappointed.

Read our guide on how to get to the Cotswolds to plan your trip.

B&Bs in the Cotswolds

Hotels

Located in the west-central region of England, the Cotswolds is 90 miles long and 25 miles across. Known for its beautiful hills and lush scenery it is one of the most magnificent areas in the UK.

The Heart of England consists of Oxfordshire, Gloucestershire, Wiltshire, Somerset, Warwickshire and Worcestershire counties.

If you have been thinking about surprising your partner with a weekend getaway, pack your bags and head to the Cotswolds as it has some of the most delightful B & B’s in Britain.

These are our personal favourites and, although they may be popular, you are guaranteed to have some of the nicest B & B stays of your life!

Byfield House

Painswick is just a two hour drive from London and is known as the gem of the Cotswolds. Featuring limestone buildings that date back to the 16th century, it was home to one of the most popular Bed and Breakfasts in the UK.

Byfield House proprietors Brett and Jill Hutton welcome guests and will make you feel like you are part of the family. If you are unsure of the area they can help you find antiques in the village, or point you in the right direction for an afternoon walk. Stay in the charming Garden Suite. Enter through your own private entrance and have a cup of tea in the delightful garden. Fully self-contained, the suite has a fully-equipped kitchen. Bring the family and stay on the second floor which has a second bedroom available. Take a walk and explore the village and have a bite to eat at a traditional English pub.

Kissing Gate Cottage

The name says it all, and if you are looking for a romantic getaway in Ebrington , just outside the famous Cotswolds town of Chipping Campden, for you and your better half then why not spend a weekend at Kissing Gate Cottage.

Upon arrival you will be treated to afternoon tea. Kick up your feet in the sitting room and decide how you are going to spend your time at Kissing Gate. You can relax on the patio with a glass of Pimms, or warm your toes in front of the cosy fireplace. Challenge each other to a game of Scrabble in the conservatory or take a walk through the beautiful garden. After a good night’s sleep you will be treated to a traditional breakfast. Expect locally grown produce with a full range of breakfast items to choose from.

If you hire a car you will be able to spend the afternoon driving around the Cotswolds before you head back to your B & B.

Bowers Hill Farm

Shakespeare fans will undoubtedly know that Stratford-upon-Avon was the writers old stomping ground and if you want to walk in his famous footsteps, book your holidays at Bowers Hill Farm which is only twenty minutes away. Owned by the Bent Family since 1904 this delightful B & B is the perfect accommodation for you and your family. To this day Martin and his wife Sarah make sure that every guest feels right at home on the farm. Every room features a comfy bed, and families are also accommodated for. When you get up in the morning you will be treated to a full English breakfast which features locally sourced food including pork sausage, succulent bacon, tomatoes ripened by the sun and delicious eggs from the hens that call Bowers Hill home. Indulge in fried bread, black pudding, porridge and scrumptious French toast. The B & B also serves fresh fruit, yoghurt and cereals.

The Old Post Office

Lovingly restored in 2007 this luxury Bed and Breakfast used to be an old post office, hence the name. More than a B & B, The Old Post Office serves delicious dinners that only source locally grown meat, fruit and vegetables. Upon request proprietors Christopher and former chef Nicola will prepare you a delicious two or three course supper.

Of course if you would like to get out and about The North Cotswolds has plenty of gastro pubs, eateries and restaurants to satisfy your appetite. Breakfast is served in the main dining room and offers guests delicious home-made scones, pastries and even porridge and kippers.

Do not be surprised if you wake up to Eggs Benedict and bacon with fried tomatoes and toast. Situated in Adlestrop, The Old Post Office is ideal for walkers. Take a tour of the old church or explore the Gloucestershire countryside. If you feel like relaxing, book a massage at the Hay Barn or opt for a body wrap or scrub. Although most people like to relax on their holidays you can take a cooking class at Daylesford Organics farm shop.

Yew Tree Cottage

Turkdean is home to this delightful cottage style Bed and Breakfast which offers guests the modern comforts of home in a unique and traditional cottage setting. Any time of the year is perfect at Yew Tree. Enjoy a cup of tea in the garden during the warmer months and snuggle up in front of the open fire in the winter. This recently refurbished cottage provides visitors with a relaxed atmosphere and authentic home-style English cooking. You can expect home-caked cakes and breads using only the freshest local ingredients. There are quite a few local pubs and eateries where you can enjoy a bite to eat if you prefer to get out and enjoy the day. Yew Tree Cottage recommends the Horse and Groom, The Fox Inn and The Golden Ball among many others. If you do decide to dine in let the owners know ahead of time as they can prepare a delicious supper. Although only one main dish is served you can choose from traditional Steak and Kidney Pie, Pork Cutlets, Beef Stroganoff or Roast Lamb.

If you fancy splashing out on accommodation then Cowley Manor near Cirencester and Cheltenham is a place a supreme luxury. A more traditional place would be The Fleece Inn – a 15th century inn with a scriptures of history.

If you have been dreaming about the Cotswolds consider hiring a car for the trip. You can tour the countryside and indulge in activities that would be impossible if you travelled by tour bus.

Spend the afternoon at the shooting range or shop for antiques in the local shires. Take the family to the Cotswold Wildlife Park where you can get up close and personal with birds, reptiles and mammals. The Cotswolds are called the Heart of England for different reasons, but the only way that you can find out why is to discover them yourself.